A framed shower screen is the one that has metal around every glass piece. Around the door as well as other glass pieces. The glass of a framed shower screen is around 3.1 or 4.8 mm full, which is weaker and thinner than that of frameless shower screens.
A semi-frameless shower screen is the one that has metal but not around every piece of glass. Usually, the door does not have metal around all the sides but just at the bottom.
Frameless shower screens are those who do not have metal around the edges at all but only in the case of U-Channel or a header. Usually, the glass is more substantial, thicker and tempered. The recommended thickness of the glass for a frameless shower screen is either 3.1 mm or 4.8 mm although a U-Channel or header may include metal that still is a frameless shower screen.
According to Australian standards, safety glass should be used. It has various specifications too. Some guidelines specify that a certain thickness of glass must be used for only a specific size. Like, 10mm safety glass must be used for the size of 6.0m2, 8mm for 4.5m2, and 6mm for 3.0m2.
Proper fracture characteristics should be fulfilled. That is, when broken, it should fragment into a minimum number of pieces. This prevents any serious injury. For this, it is specified, that safety glass should have a minimum surface compression of 68.94MPa, and edge compression of minimum 66.87MPa.
Acid-etched glass is the acid-treated glass that creates an overall frosted look, whereas sandblasted glass is machine treatment. In this, sand particles and other coarse particles are blasted at the glass screens. Since this method is mechanised, more selective patterns can be made on the glass. Also, acid-etched is more economical than sandblasted glass.
These notches are hill-shaped cutouts. Notches make grooves that fit into metal clips perfectly. These metal clips and hill-shaped cutouts make a secure, firm grip. Caution is taken to make them of exact measurements, and there is no room for error.
Mickey-mouse is a specially cut notch. It looks like a rectangle with two round mouse-ears like cutouts at the two ends of the rectangle. This is used for securing door-hinges. With mickey-mouse hinges, it is impossible to pull door hinge out of the glass.
There are two types of hinges to secure your frameless shower door: Pivot hinges and side-mount hinges. It is essential because these decide the method of installation and both have their pros and cons.
Pivot hinge fixes the door from top and bottom. In the manner of a revolving door. Just that, this pivot hinge is usually fixed at the corner of the door, making it swing for about 180 degrees in both the directions.
Since the notches are made at top and bottom, thus, pivot hinge gives a continuous unbroken look of glass. Less expenditure is incurred in glass fabrication, and lastly, the weight is stabilised by a sturdy floor, which is good. While these hinges can’t be sealed for extra water protection. Also in the case where it will not extend from floor-to-ceiling, then a header will be required.
Side-mount hinge attaches the door through its sides. Quite like the doors in our house. These can be used in right angles as well.
Side mount hinges have some pros as it does not need a top support bar or header and sealer can be applied on it. But the cons are if it is attached to another glass panel then it may require a top header.
Metal clips are two-inch clips that are very heavy and that hold the door in place. A hill-shaped notch craved during the fabrication process is used by the metal clip to fit in seamlessly. This metal clip is stable and thus keeps the door in place. The design of your shower screen and the size of the glass panel decides the number of metal clips used.
There are three types of safety glass available: Toughened/Tempered, Wired, and Laminated Glass.
Toughened/Tempered Glass is about 4 to 5 times tougher than the regular glass. How it is so? Tempered Glass is heated in a furnace at very high temperatures like 620 Degree Celsius. After that, it is rapidly cooled. This develops inner stresses and gives the glass its strength. When broken, it fragments into small blunt pieces which are almost harmless.
Laminated glass is made of two or sometimes more sheets of regular glass stuck together by a layer of PVB (Polyvinyl Butyral). Thus when it breaks, the glass breaks into smaller pieces, but the pieces stick to the PVB layer. Laminated glass is excellent for commercial and security purposes. It is harder to break than Tempered Glass.
Wired glass is two glasses joint together by a wired mesh in between. Although the glass is not robust, instead, it is similar to ordinary glass in the matter of strength. But when broken, the pieces stick to the wire mesh. Also, it has good fire-resistance. This type of mirror is excellent for fire-doors and households.
Toughened Glass is cheaper than laminated glass. But laminated glass is more robust, while tempered glass weighs lesser, resulting in less wearing of the window holding mechanism.
Plate glass is made by polishing the mirrors to give them a beautiful bright finish. It is usually regular glass which is also called annealed glass. Also, it is made by the float process.
The float process is when molten glass is fed to a bath of molten tin. Here the glass is slowly cooled. But, please do not confuse it with tempered glass.
Yes, in wet areas like bathrooms, using safety glass, i.e. Grade A safety glass along with a full vinyl backing is necessary. But for non-wet areas, vinyl backing is not mandatory.
Yes, we can. According to Australian Standards, there are different ways to install a frameless mirror for wet areas and non-wet areas. Although, mechanical methods like metal clips and dome-covered screws can also be added for massive mirrors in addition to the silicone.
When installing a frameless mirror, we can install it using silicone. It just needs placing blobs of silicone the size of a fifty-cent coin and as thick as a thumb. Place these blobs at a spacing of 200mm across the full height and width, i.e. the full area of the mirror. Also, after sticking the mirror, support the bottom of the mirror until the silicone is set. Otherwise, the mirror will slide down.
To install a frameless mirror with only silicone in non-wet areas, make sure to use safety glass with full vinyl backing. Now, at the back of the mirror, draw lines of silicone 5mm thick from top to bottom. Space these lines 50mm from the sides and draw a line after every 70mm. That is the first 5mm thick line after 50mm and every other line about 70mm from the previous one. Now after sticking, support the bottom so that the mirror does not slide down.
Mirror clips are fastened with screws in the gyprock and hold the mirror. They are a better option than hanging mirrors on a nail. There are four mirror clips, i.e. two sets, the minimum required for one mirror. One set for the bottom and one for the top. They are screwed 3-5 centimetres in from the sides of the mirror.
You need to keep in mind the weight of the glass that the mirror clip has to bear. Also, the thickness of the glass that will be inserted inside the mirror clip needs to be considered.
First, hold the mirror in place and mark where the bottom of the mirror will be. Now put the mirror aside. Mark the place where the screws of the mirror clips will go and drill holes there. Now, bolt the clips. Now, place the mirror in the bottom clips and mark where the top clips will be screwed. Now keep the mirror aside. Drill holes on markings and attach the clips (spring tops). Now fix the mirror in top clips and push it upside, and lower down into the bottom clips accordingly.
Mirror clips can be fixed on masonry. But holes should be drilled in the grout rather than bricks. Also, masonry anchors and crews need to be used for such walls.
Shower Panel is a panel comprising of multiple components on it. Like hand shower, head shower, Massage jets, spout, etc. Combined on a vertical column, they are a must-have for your bathroom. Some shower panels also have audio options too for playing music.
It is not necessary but recommended. A pressure pump increases the overall performance of the shower panel. It is required when the pressure is shallow. At least 0.5hp is required to power one pressure pump.
The required pressure for a shower panel in 517 kPa. Anything too below or too higher than this can result in low performance or even danger.
Pressure pump increases the water pressure when required. It has an on the switch, which when pressed, the high-pressure water comes out from the attached panel. When the desired water pressure is reached, the pump switches itself off. This required pressure is either fixed or flexible.
Yes, it can become a problem gradually. You must use water softener if the hardness level of water exceeds 100 DH. Because with time salt deposition in the shower heads will take place and cause issues.
Caring for a shower panel is straightforward. All you have to do is wipe with a soft, clean, damp cloth. Also, take care not to use any abrasive cleaners. This can not only tarnish your finish but will also void the warranty of the finish. While non-abrasive cleaners help remove staining from water, soaps, and creams, etc.
Usually, a shower panel is made up of aluminium or stainless steel. Rustproof stainless steel is used. The thickness of stainless steel is kept 1 mm, while that of aluminium is kept in the range of 1.2-1.5 mm.
Yes, you can replace your diverter and mixer fitting with a shower panel. But, please check the space taken by your earlier fittings and the space required by the new shower panels you are planning to install.
We at Ballarat Glass are experienced and old service providers of Ballarat’s Glass servicing industry. We have a very diversified portfolio and can take care of any demand that you may have with any type of glass, mirror, or shower panels. We take pride in our quality service and attention to detail. Our vast experience has given us in-depth knowledge of everything glass and a family of happy customers. We assure you your experiences with us will be a smooth one.